Angolan Road Trip - Part 3

Between the loss of my student and the attacks on American embassies, last week was pretty rough. I could feel the negativity of all these events, in which I have no control, washing over me. Luckily, I had been planning a weekend getaway with some friends, so it was the perfect time to escape the dirty, crowded, smelly streets of Luanda. We headed east toward the provinces of Malange and Kwanza Norte, where the scenery is breathtaking, the people are friendly, and the remnants of war are everywhere.

Kalandula Falls 

The second highest waterfall in Africa. The 1st is Victoria Falls on the Zambia/Zimbabwe border, where I once bungee jumped. I know you were wondering.

Don't tell my dad I was so close to the edge

Pedras Negras 

 Pedras Negras (black rocks), which are not black at all so I don't know where that came from, are impressive rock formations located in Malange Province. The rocks are a geological mystery since they are completely out of character from the surrounding landscape.

My guidebook says, "Many of the rocks have been described as looking like animals but at least one looks like an enormous circumcised phallus." I don't see it.

 Kwanza Norte

From Malange, we headed over to Cangandala National Park. I use the term park very loosely here. There is no infrastructure whatsoever - information, guides, tours, or lodging. Angola was once home to all the African game animals like lions, giraffes, elephants, etc. Unfortunately, they were all killed and eaten during the civil war. There are now some efforts to re-introduce certain species to Angola. However, this park apparently is home to the palanca negra, which is a large antelope and the national animal. Angola is the only country in the world that is home to this elusive animal.

On the way to the park, we drove past an abandoned Soviet tank and trees painted with red and white lines - a warning sign that landmines may be in the area. This was a stark reminder of the war and the devastating effect it continues to have. Angola is the most heavily mined country in Africa, possibly the world. No one knows exactly how many mines were laid since all sides, including foreign actors, used this strategy and did not map them. 

The red and white tape indicates the possible presence of mines

 This abandoned building on the bank of the Kwanza River is littered with bullet holes and painted with red and white stripes (on left).

"Don't leave your trash on the ground"

De-mined

The beach along the Kwanza River looked so enticing from a distance that we decided to drive down there and get a closer look.  What we found was a disturbing scene in which a naturally gorgeous landscape had been tragically destroyed. Come on, Angolans!



On a positive note, it was a great trip and a much needed retreat. Every once in a while, it's important to get out of Luanda to remind yourself that this is indeed a beautiful country. Sad, but beautiful.

the camping crew with a palanca negra (not a real one)

Comic Relief

I was sitting with a group of high school students the other day, flipping through a very cool science encyclopedia, when I was faced with a condundrum. These kids had been selected to participate in a video conference at the embassy with an American biologist, so I was helping them write questions for her. One group stopped on the dinosaur page, fascinated by the realistic pictures of the massive creatures. A young girl looked up at me and asked, "Teacher, where do the dinosaurs live?" Oh boy, I thought. I guess I have to be the bearer of bad news. 

"I hate to tell you this, but all the dinosaurs are dead."

"Oh." She replied, lowering her head disappointingly as she looked back down at the brontosaurus.