Angolan Road Trip - Part 1

open space!

Since I am still on my “pausa pedagogica” or semester break, I had the opportunity to join a delegation from the embassy on a trip outside of Luanda. Traveling out to the provinces is a challenge because of security restrictions. The embassy doesn’t allow its employees to fly on the non-FAA approved Angolan airline so all travel must be done by car. In addition, the embassy requires that at least 2 vehicles travel together when leaving Luanda province. The areas outside of the city are very remote so they lack the services that would be needed in an emergency.

Because of this, the various sections of the embassy coordinate travel to the provinces so that they accomplish multiple goals in one visit. That’s where I come in. The first stop on our trip was the city of Benguela, about 5 hours south of Luanda. Since we were traveling with the Ambassador, we had a police escort for the whole ride. Talk about feeling important! After exiting Luanda province, the landscape immediately transformed from a noisy, crowded mega-city to a peaceful, serene countryside. Round, thatch-roofed houses dotted the rolling hills and baobab trees stood prominently along the side of the road. I willed myself to stay awake so that I could enjoy the natural beauty that I had never before associated with Angola. Eventually, sleep took over my body and I began to doze, but my nap was interrupted by screams. The police car in front of us hit a monkey in the road. Maybe it was an evil monkey who was involved in a plot against the Ambassador.


The main purpose of my trip to Benguela was to lead a workshop for English teachers at a local university. In true Angolan style, I showed up at the school to find that no one there knew who I was or what I was doing there. I was told that my contact, who I had spoken to that morning, was not even in Benguela, but on holiday 2 hours away. I figured he had at least invited people to participate in this event so I asked the people in the English department where the presentation would be. Again, no idea what I was talking about. It was finally decided that 4 English teachers would join me in a classroom for the workshop. So I just spent 5 hours in a car to give a presentation to 4 people? That sounds about right.

Surrounded by Angolan men – story of my life. The guy on his phone showed up with 5 minutes left so he doesn’t really count.

      









One of the Ambassador’s events was a radio debate with politically active citizens in Benguela. To say it was a heated debate would be an understatement. It was fiery. Tensions are running high these days because of the upcoming elections, and a lot of people are angry. This forum allowed Angolans to express their frustrations, and they did – directly at the Ambassador. While misplaced, I certainly understand why they were so angry. At one point a man stood up in front of the crowd of 200 and asked, “Is there democracy in Angola?” to which everyone screamed “No!” The young man next to me was pleading, “We are not free! We are like slaves! America must do something!” “What exactly would you like us to do, sir?” was my response. Take over your government? Fight a war for you? We’ve seen how well that works out. I wanted to say, you need to do it - Angolans, not Americans. This is your country. Take responsibility for your future; don’t depend on us to save you.

Speaking of election fever….

I’ve learned that the dates on the academic calendar are rather fluid, but I was told that the 2^nd semester would start “around the 1^st week of August;” therefore, I made travel plans for most of July. I received a text on July 12^th from a colleague at the university telling me that classes would begin on July 16^th. Mind you, I am out in the provinces until July 20^th. The reason for the early start is because classes will be closed again – for all schools in the country – for A MONTH due to the elections on August 31^st. Why? There are a number of theories. 1) The government is doing this to make people happy before the elections because people don’t like going to work or school 2) The schools are sites for rallies and serve as polling stations 3) People need to be trained on how to count the votes 4) People need to be available to participate in “campaign” activities like going to parties where the candidates pass out free beer.

While it’s been nice to have a break from classes so that I can travel and focus on other projects, I am eager to continue working with the university students. I know they are too. In fact, a male student called me last week and said “Hello professor. I am not calling about class. I am calling to tell you that I miss you.” Inappropriate.